Lost in Kimonoland: 10 stories of JAPAN<->FASHION
Japan certainly is one of the biggest fashionplaygrounds globally, where the majority seems to be playing according to THE rule - modest but conceptual.
Japan and fashion form a perfect duo, with art always sitting somewhere in between. During my recent trip there, I did confirm, deny, discover, observe and got to wear various Japanese fashion stories. Some of them are powerfully embedded in the nation’s DNA, while some are infused with global trends and foreign design influences, often delivering a blended look, like wearing Maison Margiela’s tabi loafers with a traditional kimono robe.
Below, I have collected 10 interesting takeways that are (in my head) shaping the narrative of fashion in Japan today.
What is your shifuku?
While in Japan… it is believed that each woman has her own “shifuku”- personal style. And after my grand séjour there, I can certainly testify that - each woman (regardless her age) and to every single detail cares about her style being authentic, and also presentable. Yes, the latter is super important. Women (and not only!) are always wearing neat and clean clothing, besides generally looking tidy and fresh. Though this does not imply boredom, not at all! Japanese are magicians in keeping a perfect balance in their shifuku - they can be neat but edgy, modest but conceptual. And everyone does it in a different way.
Subway=Runway
Riding a subway in Japan is like sitting at the front row of a fashion show. Of course, it still slightly depends on your route and destination but, in general, that is a great way of fashionsightseeing. Since Japanese cities are pretty huge and even CEOs commute to work by subway, you can observe a diverse array of different characters there, from a crowd of suits to romantic lolitas. And basically no surprised or amazed faces. People usually hardly look or see anyone around, except what is shown on their phones’ screen.
Phenomenon of Kimono
Yes, it is still alive and thriving. Kimonos have been worn for over 1000 years and are the national dress of Japan. They come with a rich history and tradition, furthermore, in many contexts a kimono can be seen as a piece of sublime artwork coming in many outstanding designs produced throughout the centuries. From solid and clean, to bold, covered in elaborate floral or animal embroidery - the sumptuous world of kimono art has already embraced the present with some contemporary modifications. The present kimonos’ designers are still preserving Japanese kimono craftsmanship but at the same time introducing the garments as high fashion beyond the bounds of national dress. Indeed, this is something I noticed myself that outside Japan, many people view kimonos as some kind of cultural legacy, aka national costume. However, it has proved itself to be able to transcend geographical and cultural barriers. I am myself a proud owner and wearer of a few contemporary design kimonos.
Japanese kind of flip-flops
If one has started talking about kimonos, another has to continue talking about the géta - wooden sandals traditionally worn with a kimono. I must confess that I felt in love with their beautiful contemporary designs when visiting local fashion concept stores in Japan. Interesting to know that traditional géta are unique for their “teeth”—the supporting pieces of wood attached to the sole of the sandal. While you might compare them to platform shoes of the ’70s, they weren’t originally designed for fashion. Rather, they give the wearer enough height to keep the lovely kimono from getting dragged in the mud or snow. However, these days, wearing géta (if one is capable of doing that at all) is also quite a fashion statement, I could not resist myself to :)
Everything adorable, besides Lolita
Although Japan is still often associated with its fearless samurai and graceful geishas, current Japanese culture has taken a very jarring turn. Japan is now synonymous with something entirely different from the past - Kawaii fashion. The latter is essentially centrered around appeal of cuteness, and its essence is rooted in childhood nostalgia. Adorable infantile characters and clothing the hue of vibrant bubblegum and big, innocent unblinking eyes characterize this cultural Kawaii movement. And if you want to experience Kawaii at its fullest, head to Harajuku district in Tokyo - young people have invaded this fashion district with their colorful and extravagant outfits.
Minimalist but not minimal
As a sharp contrast to the bold and playful flamboyance of Harajuku and Kawaii styles, Japanese minimalism presents an entirely different aesthetic perspective, with her royalty BLACK standing often at the front. Marked by clean lines, earthy color palettes, and an emphasis on functionality that’s rooted in the philosophy of “less is more,” Japanese minimalist fashion presents a sense of understated elegance and sophistication, usually spiced up with some unique touches of avant-garde. Minimalist fashion in Japan also reflects a desire for harmony and celebration of nature through materials and textures in their purest forms. Lastly, black has always been the new black in Japan and it embodies both solemnity and a dignity that is so defining everything Japanese both on a physical and meta-physical levels.
Three legends
Japanese fashion would not be neither Japanese, nor fashion without three outstanding designers: Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawabuko of Comme des Garçons and Issey Myakey. They have become synonymous with minimalist fashion, showcasing their avant-garde creations, that also paved they way for the Japanese fashion to enter the international runways. Their conceptual designs often feature asymmetrical cuts, draping, the innovative use of various fabrics, as well as monochromatic colour palettes. I am myself a truly committed fan of these designers and during the last time in Tokyo I managed to spend 3 hours (!) while trying various pieces in Comme des Garçons flagship store. Similarly, I couldn’t pass by any Issey Myakey store - felt like missing the best gallery in town where a piece of clothing is placed on the same shelf with a piece of art.
Coat is the king
That was something what left me with a wow effect. Such a big majority of Japanese, especially men, wearing great quality and fine design coats instead of all those outdoor sporty jackets and parkas. And although I have nothing against the latter, but seeing so many beautiful coats was certainly a ‘refreshment’.
It even looked and felt like a coat in Japan is THE ONE embodying all key Japanese fashion elements: it usually comes in an architectural design, over-sized cut, earthy colours, natural fabrics. Sounds like Scandi minimal, but it’s certainly not. Sounds like bland normcore, but it’s certainly not. Sounds like avant-garde quite elegance, it certainly is.
Mecca of suits
In the Japanese city jungle, all men have to wear a suit. It does not only serve the blending-in purpose but also works as a social armour - formal masculinity reflects the ideals of respect, authority, and taste. And these three are truly important in Japan. What is more, the phenomenon of suited army is also connected to the fact that Japanese people are always working: on their way to work, at work, on their way from work, and every evening sitting with their colleagues in the so-called izakayas (popular spots for socializing, drinking, and eating). In suits. I caught myself feeling like Indiana Jones when being surrounded by these urban bees.
Japanese fashion paradox
Taking the third spot in the global apparel market ranking, fashion in Japan can be said to be a refined blend of tradition and innovation, while also lately a not so refined one of high-end and fast fashion(-s). The local fashion ecosystem has been adapting to Western fashion trends and in turn, setting trends itself. Sadly, one of the negative trends is that Japan is AGAIN nr. 3, globally, in terms with fast fashion consumption. Even though Japanese consumers have always been appreciating quality and they willingly pay for it, but a young generation is showing signs of shifting to lower-priced, trend-driven fast fashion, mostly produced outside Japan. A stroll through the Ginza, Tokyo’s exclusive shopping district, perfectly reflected this fashion paradox - Hermès retail store there stands next to Zara.